Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 66 total · 39/month
Shared By: Brad Fauteux on Jan 28, 2019
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

Powerful compression on slopers that are barely holdable, this problem could be harder than its neighbour, "Robbing the Toothfairy".

Sit-start on the jug horizontal to the left of the tree. From here, pull on and cross up right-hand to a bad sloper in the black water-groove. Smack out to the arete with the left-hand and squeeze the juice out of the block. Find the good left toe, then continue smacking up the polished arete and the sloping water groove for the right. A few desperate moves lead to jugs on the lip of the boulder.

This line flows nicely when it comes together, and it is a natural sit-start that is rarely done. Breaking the beta and escaping out right into the water-groove seems possible, but that would be cheating yourself. To climb the water-groove, check out "Get Your Groove On" which has recently been cleaned, and climb directly up from the same start.

Location

This problem is located on the same boulder as "Diesel Power" and "The Toothfairy". Follow the main trail past the entrance blocks and hike through a section of the trail where the rocks run out. This will be the next large boulder that the trail encounters.

This problem climbs from the jug horizontal up and slightly left over a smaller, but flat boulder, which then drops off several feet to the trail.

Protection

3 or 4 pads

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