Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Larry Scritchfield & Dave Bingham, 1985
Page Views: 250 total · 27/month
Shared By: thehackattacks on Jan 12, 2019
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route


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Description

This route is BUUURL. Hard, diifficult and hard. Committing start, gritty and exfoliating rock at the bottom and full-on offwidth that gives way to chimneying and ultimately to an exposed (and unprotected) step-across you won't soon forget. (The only pro I could get in for a long time was a blue big bro, and from the top of the pillar I was still about 30 feet above that.) The thrill factor is high and so is the risk. So though this route was originally rated 5.9, I put this animal at 5.10a at least. The question is...will you conquer the Turtle?

Here's what the First Ascentionist has to say: "Climb the mega-crack that widens to a chimney, ending with an au naturel belay atop of the huge pillar (no gear or bolts). Step across and climb 5.8 face with slung horns for pro. Suck it up, crybaby!"

(from "City of Rocks and Castle Rocks State Park--A climber's guide by Dave Bingham", Wolverine publishing)

Location

Locate the unmistakable mega-pillar and the crack that divides it from the main wall. This route is to the right of 'Boss Hog.'

Protection

BIG gear: doubles of #3-#6 and a blue to gold big bro if you wanna prevent an absurd runout

Photos