All Locations > Idaho > S Idaho > City of Rocks > No Start Wall

Vertical Turtle

Name: Vertical Turtle
Rating: 2.8

5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British R

Routes in No Start Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Big Pig S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Pig Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Power Pig S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Squeeze Box T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	Vertical Turtle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R

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Type:	Trad, 150 ft (45 m)
GPS:	42.08595, -113.71191
FA:	Larry Scritchfield & Dave Bingham, 1985
Page Views:	1,303 total · 14/month
Shared By:	thehackattack on Jan 12, 2019
Admins:	GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) There are no longer trash cans in the park. (3) Highlining ban in place for CIRO and CRSP Details

(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's.
(2) In 2024 CIRO implemented a no trash cans anywhere policy. Be prepared to take your trash home with you. facebook.com/CityOfRocksNPS… and nps.gov/ciro/planyourvisit/…
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is prohibited as of August 28, 2019.

Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…

Description

This route is BUUURL. Hard, diifficult and hard. Committing start, gritty and exfoliating rock at the bottom and full-on offwidth that gives way to chimneying and ultimately to an exposed (and unprotected) step-across you won't soon forget. (The only pro I could get in for a long time was a blue big bro, and from the top of the pillar I was still about 30 feet above that.) The thrill factor is high and so is the risk. So though this route was originally rated 5.9, I put this animal at 5.10a at least. The question is...will you conquer the Turtle?

Here's what the First Ascentionist has to say: "Climb the mega-crack that widens to a chimney, ending with an au naturel belay atop of the huge pillar (no gear or bolts). Step across and climb 5.8 face with slung horns for pro. Suck it up, crybaby!"

(from "City of Rocks and Castle Rocks State Park--A climber's guide by Dave Bingham", Wolverine publishing)