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The route has been named Waiting on Me since the early 1990s
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
Routes in Lower Power station
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Dual Nature TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Entanglement T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Minchi (Unknown 7) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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route has been named Waiting on Me since the early 1990s, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Spooky Action at a Distance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Uncertainty Principle TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unknown 1 S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Unknown 3 S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Unknown 4 S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unknown 5 S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Washed Out (Unknown 6) S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 35.45777, -118.77962 |
| FA: | Unkown |
| Page Views: | 924 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | CurranH on Oct 22, 2018 · Updates |
| Admins: | Cory B, Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
Route starts with a ~3" crack in a corner that you can either lie-back or climb with a combination of jams and face moves, protects well. Crack tapers to face and finger cracks with thin feet. Pro is more sparse for the second half of the route and beware of loose holds. A few seemingly obvious holds jiggle, but there are many less obvious holds and solid crack holds.
The 5.10a rating is based on rumors that it was originally graded 5.10a. The bottom half is easier (around, 5.8), while the top half requires a few moves in the 5.10 range, but is mostly 5.9.
Location
From the turnout for the Lower Power Station climbing area, walk south along Hwy 178, stay behind the big boulders that provide protection from the highway. After ~50 feet, you will see a rough trail that trends up the hill towards the rock face. The climb should be a 50 foot scramble up the gritty trail. You can belay from 15 below the start of the climb where there are better stances and a few flat surfaces.
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