Type: Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: Unkown
Page Views: 333 total · 13/month
Shared By: CurranH on Oct 22, 2018
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Route starts with a ~3" crack in a corner that you can either lie-back or climb with a combination of jams and face moves, protects well. Crack tapers to face and finger cracks  with thin feet. Pro is more sparse for the second half of the route and beware of loose holds. A few seemingly obvious holds jiggle, but there are many less obvious holds and solid crack holds.

The 5.10a rating is based on rumors that it was originally graded 5.10a. The bottom half is easier (around, 5.8), while the top half requires a few moves in the 5.10 range, but is mostly 5.9.

Location

From the turnout for the Lower Power Station climbing area, walk south along Hwy 178, stay behind the big boulders that provide protection from the highway. After ~50 feet, you will see a rough trail that trends up the hill towards the rock face. The climb should be a 50 foot scramble up the gritty trail. You can belay from 15 below the start of the climb where there are better stances and a few flat surfaces.

Protection

Standard trad rack. BD #3 (blue) protects the wide crack at the bottom, while thinner gear (BD #0.4 and smaller) is best for the top. Bolts with rap-rings are located above the route, to the right of the small roof at the top of the route.

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