Fifty Year Storm
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | Mike Williams & Kirk Bjorling 2009 |
Page Views: | 639 total · 19/month |
Shared By: | Safety Dan on Jul 22, 2018 |
Admins: | Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
This whole area is private property, and occasionally the owners place boulders as roadblocks, making access unreliable. Check with WaterStone on before heading out or use your own judgment.
This year parking along southbound highway 19 has really increased in numbers. Often, nearly 100 cars are just parked along the side of a busy four lane, 65mph highway. While it's not yet illegal (but surely will be if it continues), here are some guidelines:
- DO NOT park past the sign near the bridge. It indicates something like "no parking to the right," but actually means "no parking past this sign" (thanks DOT). This is to keep access open for emergency 4x4s that may need to descend to gorge for rescues.
-Park completely off the pavement, preferably diagonally, with vehicle rears facing away from the road. I've seen a couple cars actually back out into the highway as they exit the parking. This is stupid and dangerous.
-consider using the large gravel parking lot just off the Underwood Rd. Seriously, it only adds an extra 5 minutes of walking. You came to the Meadow for those closely bolted easy climbs that the NRG lacks, so pay your dues and walk a little, goober. Seriously, you take an extra five minutes to set up your hammock at the crag anyway, it's not a huge deal.
Local climbers and boaters have been getting increasingly irate about bad/excessive parking off of 19. If it keeps as it has been going, the likely outcome will be a simple ban on parking, with no other alternatives. Let's try to self-regulate, m'kay?
- DO NOT park past the sign near the bridge. It indicates something like "no parking to the right," but actually means "no parking past this sign" (thanks DOT). This is to keep access open for emergency 4x4s that may need to descend to gorge for rescues.
-Park completely off the pavement, preferably diagonally, with vehicle rears facing away from the road. I've seen a couple cars actually back out into the highway as they exit the parking. This is stupid and dangerous.
-consider using the large gravel parking lot just off the Underwood Rd. Seriously, it only adds an extra 5 minutes of walking. You came to the Meadow for those closely bolted easy climbs that the NRG lacks, so pay your dues and walk a little, goober. Seriously, you take an extra five minutes to set up your hammock at the crag anyway, it's not a huge deal.
Local climbers and boaters have been getting increasingly irate about bad/excessive parking off of 19. If it keeps as it has been going, the likely outcome will be a simple ban on parking, with no other alternatives. Let's try to self-regulate, m'kay?
Description
Stick clip the first bolt then boulder out the low roof. Good core tension ends with a snap to a crimp and a sloper. Slight traverse right to a hueco and a big undercling stand up move leads you to the second bolt. The climbing eases from here but sill involves long reaches between great holds. Varied rock goes from typical NRG huecos and slopers to classic RRG iron bands. At the top, move slightly right of the dihedral to the face and race to the chains.
If you stick the boulder problem to the 2nd bolt, the send is yours
If you stick the boulder problem to the 2nd bolt, the send is yours
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