Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Mackenzie Moore, Michelle Felix, Alex Vaught
Page Views: 284 total · 16/month
Shared By: Mackenzie Moore on May 20, 2018 with improvements by Mackenzie Moore
Admins: grk10vq, Zach Wahrer

You & This Route


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Description

P1 5.9 Start up obvious left trending crack. Great jamming to a ledge where you will need to build a belay. 100ft
P2 5.4 Move belay to the left, directly under a short left facing corner with great orange colored rock. 20-30ft.
P3 5.10b Lieback up the dihedral and pull a small roof. Climb easy 5th class to a gear belay below the blockiness above. 80ft
P4 5.6 Follow obvious weakness through blocky terrain to the top. (2 bolt anchor)

To descend double rope rappel from the two bolt anchor to a bolt and fixed nut anchor below. From here double rope rap all the way to the ground.

Location

From the Canyon Creek TH, follow the Canyon Creek Trail (not the overlook trail) for about 1.5 miles. Shortly after passing the Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness sign you'll notice formations up to your right. The formation that Lunacy Cracks is on, is more or less, the first major buttress you'll see. It looks like a mini version Shoshone Spire in Blodgett with a slab apron that skirts it's base with fairly large trees on top of the apron. Start contouring up and to it's left (west) side. Once on the the west side you should see a junky looking chimney (do not climb). From here traverse above the slab apron to a very big treed area/ledge (seen from the trail) where the actual wall starts getting steep. The route starts on/near an arete. You are in the right spot if, to the right, you see some steep single pitch cracks. P1 climbs a single crack system that starts on the arete and trends left into the face.

Protection

Standard rack of cams and stoppers from small to 3''. 60 meter rope and tagline for rappels.

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