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Routes in Oblivion Roof

Killer Karma S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mr. Poopy Pants S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Oblivion Blues S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Succubus On Top S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Valkyrie S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport
FA: Shane Miller, 2017
Page Views: 75 total · 6/month
Shared By: Carl Schaefer on Aug 27, 2017
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

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Description

Wander up the pocketed slabby face and punch it through the roof. A cool looking line that is long and tackles the roof. The line itself was not cleaned and comfortized like the many other climbs in Tensleep, so expect sharp pockets and loads of dirt and dust, Yummy!!

Location

Literally right at the top of the trail, where it meets the wall. Just left of the slab at the base of Mr. Poopy Pants and beginning from the ground next to the large boulder that leans against the wall.

Protection

bolts to rings

Photos

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Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
 
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
 
Great movement and a good choice of line, but unfortunately didn't seem to get much cleaning. Still a decent amount of loose, potentially dangerous stuff waiting to come off this thing below the roof, and lots of annoying small stuff in the roof. And who the F(#*% uses a rap ring setup on a super steep Tensleep roof route in 2017?!

IMO, this would be a 3-4 star route if someone pried off the loose shit, tapped the smaller stuff off with a hammer, gave it the leaf blower treatment, another brush sesh, and swapped the anchor out. Sad that it didn't get those things to begin with- it has potential to be a classic.

Don't know how much experience the FA had, but when developing on Bighorn Dolomite, it's best to keep in mind that 99% of the time, great dolomite routes are made, not found. I don't mean chipped and drilled, but that they take a LOT of time and effort to clean. The rare 1% that don't take much are true gems. /soapbox. Sep 10, 2017

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