Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Ken Driese?
Page Views: 42 total · 3/month
Shared By: Chris Archer on Aug 22, 2017
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


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Description

Called "Corn Dog" and rated 5.10 in the error-filled Laramie Range Guide (LRG), this is a challenging warm-up...

Moderate crack and face climbing protected by gear leads to the right edge of a large roof. A heady move takes you to the top of a pillar where you clip the first bolt. Pull the roof via a short strenuous 10+/11- section. Head up the arete and face to the base of the roof.
(NB Difficult 3rd clip unless you go past it to goods holds and clip it down and to your left.) 2 bolts out left force the climb through the steepest part of the roof to a desperate top out. Or, to keep the climb in the mid 11 range, from the horizontal at the base of the roof climb out right for an easier exit. Adding a bolt would create a better exit and protect good climbing straight up the face at the right edge of the roof about 10' right of the current bolted finish. No anchors.

Location

Left of the 12a called "Duck's Breath" in LRG and right of an unknown moderate looking bolted route, climb a crack system to the right edge of a large roof and follow 5 sparsely placed bolts up and left. To descend, we down climbed to the anchors on the unknown bolt protected route left (west) of this route.

Protection

A few nuts (3-5 Rock size) and 1 set of cams to BD gold. No top anchors.

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