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Routes in Inner Circle

Friends Invited T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inner Circle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Dave Bingham 1984
Page Views: 125 total · 10/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Jul 24, 2017 with updates from Peter Lenz
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

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Description

A heavily featured mixed line up a beautiful face. Vertical, bolt protected climbing up steep terrain ends with an even more steepening jug haul finish. Sparse protection and widely spaced bolts over easy-ish terrain.

Location

Left most route, right of the crack/fin features.

Protection

A mixture of small to medium cams and four bolts. Bolted anchor.

Photos

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Peter Lenz
Salt Lake City
  5.10a R
Peter Lenz   Salt Lake City
  5.10a R
This could be a great route, but there are some problems:
1) There are two regions on the route where a ground fall is a distinct possibility. Climbing is roughly 5.9 at those locations.
2) the anchor consists of two bolts with Leeper hangers. These hangers are made of carbon steel, are very old. The anchor is unsafe, and should be replaced.
If runouts and anchor issues were addressed properly, I would rate it 2-3 stars. May 19, 2018
Peter Lenz
Salt Lake City
  5.10a R
Peter Lenz   Salt Lake City
  5.10a R
My friend tells me I am being overly “harsh,” with my “bomb,” rating of this climb. But “bomb,” means “avoid,” and that is my advice, at least until the anchor is fixed. I also take issue with the description of this climb as “well protected,” given ground fall potential at two places. May 22, 2018
This is a mid-80's route on private land that could use a new anchor, and probably some re-engineering. Lots of routes have ground fall potential if you blow it, and this one certainly falls in to that category! I'm on the maintenance committee for the City's LCO - CRAG, and I'll add this to the list of projects. Thanks for the heads up. May 24, 2018

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