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Routes in Project boulder

Halfhearted V1 5
Oardeal of the Boats, The V6+ 7A PG13
Skidloader V1 5
Welcome to Gumby Town V3-4 6A+ R
Type: Boulder, 30 ft
FA: Jeff Jaramillo
Page Views: 20 total, 3/month
Shared By: Unklhefe on Jun 4, 2017
Admins: Bill McKirgan

You & This Route


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Description

Starts matched on the chest-high horizontal pocket on the left of the bulge. Throw left and up for some smaller crimpy pockets before tossing big into the moss on the face of the slab. Head straight up, avoid the holds out right and leaving the moss (c'mon, you're barely 15ft up!) Good jugs and pinches to be had up into the roof, so calm down and forget you're standing in moss. Get some high feet and go for the bomber baseball-sized jug on top just left of the prow, (about 6 inches farther than you want it.) Take a deep breath and mantle the thing. Don't forget to look down and notice you are pretty stinkin' high for a boulder problem.

Named for the fact that the boulder itself looks like a human heart AND that the moss on the left of the slab face looks like a half of a heart symbol.

Location

Climbs the straightest route directly up the slab face through the moss. Starts 4ft to the left of the R-rated tree from Gumbytown. Walkoff is the recently cleaned class 4 scramble to the right past the large cedar when you topout.

Protection

2 pads and 2 spotters preferable.The landing zone has a pointed rock that does a good job as a backstop for the second. Don't commit to the mantle topout if you don't have well trained spotters– traverse right onto easier holds and up through the gunsight instead.

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