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> 5 - Windy Ridge
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> Phallus
South Ridge
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British R
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in The Phallus
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Casanova S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Mustang Ranch S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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RUJustHappy2CMe? S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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South Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Merle Wheeler, Gary Stiles, Joe Bernfield, 1970 |
| Page Views: | 697 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | jbak x on Feb 7, 2017 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
Called the South Ridge in EFR's guide and The Phallus in Steiger's 1985 guide, this route climbs what is really the SW ridge of the pinnacle.
Steiger says to traverse to the ridge from the right, but what I did was jam up some cam-protected cracks on the SE side of the pinnacle which intersect the ridge about 20 feet off the deck. Then wander up the ridge looking for pro but not seeing much.
I give it 2 stars because: it has some actual jamming... it was put up a LONG time ago... and it is a naturally protected gear route to the top of a technical-means-only pinnacle.
Steiger says to traverse to the ridge from the right, but what I did was jam up some cam-protected cracks on the SE side of the pinnacle which intersect the ridge about 20 feet off the deck. Then wander up the ridge looking for pro but not seeing much.
I give it 2 stars because: it has some actual jamming... it was put up a LONG time ago... and it is a naturally protected gear route to the top of a technical-means-only pinnacle.
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