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Routes in The Phallus

Casanova S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mustang Ranch S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
South Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Merle Wheeler, Gary Stiles, Joe Bernfield, 1970
Page Views: 60 total · 3/month
Shared By: jbak . on Feb 7, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Called the South Ridge in EFR's guide and The Phallus in Steiger's 1985 guide, this route climbs what is really the WEST ridge of the pinnacle.

Steiger says to traverse to the ridge from the right, but what I did was jam up some cam-protected cracks on the SOUTH side of the pinnacle which intersect the ridge about 20 feet off the deck. Then wander up the ridge looking for pro but not seeing much.

I give it 2 stars because: it has some actual jamming... it was put up a LONG time ago... and it is a naturally protected gear route to the top of a technical-means-only pinnacle.


West ridge of formation, perhaps starting on south side.


hand-size cams and a selection of stoppers.


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