All Locations > California > Eastern Sierra > Southern Area > Fossil Falls > Lower Falls

Chimney Swift

Name: Chimney Swift
Rating: 2.0

5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in Lower Falls

L › R R › L A › Z

	Blocks, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Chimney Swift T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Eagle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Eagle's Talon TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Escape Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Ride of the Valkyries T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Ruppell's Vulture T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
	Rusty Piton T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Twilight of the Gods T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Unnamed 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

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Type:	Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m)
GPS:	35.96965, -117.90927
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	775 total · 7/month
Shared By:	Alex S on Dec 20, 2016
Admins:	Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

climb up the corner/chimney feature, stemming is useful. Pull up out of the corner and climb the easy crack to the midway anchors.
From here there are two options to reach the upper balcony.
Option 1: go more or less straight up and climb the fist sized crack.
Option 2: Traverse right to the cracked arête, and climb up the bolt protected finger crack as it widens to great hands
Both options feel about the same in difficulty ***Option 2 has lost the blocks on the arete that made the finger crack and inside side pulls between the second and third bolt. the difficulty of this section is now significantly harder***

Once you reach the balcony, there is still about 10ft of climbing up the crack at the back of the balcony which gets you to the top of the canyon.

Protection

standard rack, a #4 is good for option 1
option 2 has 4 bolts on the lower section of the arete to aviod the possiblity of damaging the stack of compressed blocks that froms the right hand arete.

bolts at the top of the canyon to make an anchor