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Routes in Las Hermanas

(Unknown North Arete S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Beer Helmet V3 6A
Chalk Fairy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Chewbacca V6 7A
Edges V7 7A+
Feeling Merry V5 6C
Four and One V2 5+
Grunt Sigh Grunt (working title) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Heart-Shaped Box V5 6C
Jump for Joy V5 6C
Magic Mushroom V2 5+
Mellow Mushroom V2 5+
Muffin Top Aerobics S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Perfect Hair Forever V4+ 6B+
Pinchin' Patti's Fatty V5 6C
Powder Pixie S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Socorro Socorro S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Three Peck V3 6A
Unknown Left S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Right S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Whale Tail Pilates S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 47 total, 4/month
Shared By: Badana Banantula on Dec 4, 2016
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

A tricky and unstable starting move to get established on the bulge and a challenging finish over the lip at the top may make you let out a grunt or two, but the super easy climbing between will have you breathing easy. Although, you may also sigh because the pro is little bit of a let down (hopefully not literally).

If anybody knows the real name of this route, message me and I'll update it. There's also a chance that this is one of those high ball bouldering problems that the Socorro hard man crew gets upset about when somebody puts an anchor in at the top for TRing.

Location

Five or ten feet left of Chewbacca on the East face of the formation. Across the 15 feet wide gully from Unknown Right. While walking up to Las Hermanas, locate the shiny anchor bolts at the right end of the ledge at the top of the low angle wall. No lowering hardware on the anchor hangers. Walk off carefully to the left at the top or bring some leaver biners.

Protection

All gear. The thin crack at the bouldery start can be protected with a small nut or 0/00 Master Cam. Towards the top, a #2 Camelot can be placed off to the right in an undercling slot and the last moves can be protected relatively safely in an angled slot on the face 3 feet below the anchor (a yellow Master Cam is good for this spot). The rest is creative placements, none of which were all that good, but the climbing is really easy through the middle.

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