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Routes in The Cattle Pocket

Birthday Butt Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chardonnay Champagne TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Choss Factor 10 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Choss Moss and Butt Floss S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Curving Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fizz S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Itty Bitty Tittie Committee S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jackie's Rack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left Cheek TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Magic Pig S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mustafa S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pop S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Slab Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Split - Split 8 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown and I made up the name. Claim it and I'll change it.
Page Views: 83 total, 6/month
Shared By: Russ Walling on Nov 14, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Start with a blind bolt clip on the rounded chossy flare. Work your way up into the super grotty chimney or do a few bold face moves up the arete. Either way a fall will probably knock you silly. Clip another bolt which seems to be after the crux (not good for your longevity) and then wander up the face and grainy cracks to the top. If you have pro, place it. If you do not, well, carry on and keep your wits about you.

Location

Starts just left of Magic Pig with a blind-ish bolt clip out on what could be called an arete. Mussy Hooks at the top.

Protection

3 bolts on the route and up high you could lob in a cam or two in the 1" to 2" range.

Photos

susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
What a pile, not worth doing even off the valley floor. Working the arete on the start is better than the gravel slot/shelf climbers left. Both are awful. Unless you're on a tick the AHiils tour, move along. Nov 14, 2016