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Routes in Rabbit Rock

Chim Chim Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Drumpf T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stemtastic S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Stretch S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Thinlistic S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Ken Ewing and Los Alamos Mountaineers - mid 1950s
Page Views: 193 total, 11/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Jul 19, 2016
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Intelligent climbers will avoid this one yet some folks might give it a try without fully thinking through the potential consequences. If you have tiny hands, this will feel a bit more difficult.

I'm adding this just for posterity's sake. My friend Mark and I climbed this wide crack/dihedral/chimney thing in 2008 on gear, simul-rapping off the formation with one of us on each side of the rock. It was a quick, fun experience but with the bolted route Stemtastic now just left of the crack, I wouldn't expect any repeats of this gear climb.

I later learned from a long-time Los Alamos climber that Ken Ewing and the LA Mountaineers climbed on this rock, and nearby Battleship Rock, in the 1950s so I'm sure this crack had been climbed prior to Mark and I climbing it in 2008.

Climb featured rock up the dihedral using the grungy crack in the back for gear. The angle eases off up high.

Location

The dihedral/overlap/chimney thing on the right end of the formation between Stemtastic and Chim Chim Arete

Protection

Gear to #3 camalot. Optionally, a small broom and mask.

Photos

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Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
 
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
 
George Perkins wrote:To my surprise, this crack was solo'd in the 1980s by Bob Roback and another companion from the field camp he was in in the Jemez at the time, though they assumed it had been climbed previously.
Jason Halladay wrote:Additionally, I talked with a longtime LA Mountaineer/local climber that said Ken Ewing and company used to climb on this rock (and Battleship Rock) in the 1950s! It stands to reason they climbed this crack then as it's the most obvious and logical gear-protectable line on the wall.
George Perkins wrote:Oh Jason I wasn't trying to be argumentative. Bob just mentioned it today when we were there, about to walk into UEF, so I thought I'd post it so you knew of an earlier known ascent than that listed here at the time I posted. Figured you'd appreciate it. Like I said, it kind of surprised me. I see you've changed the FA credit anyway, which is not surprising, and as I posted above, Bob never did presume to have done a FA.
Oh, no worries, I didn't take the comment as argumentative in any way. I had been meaning to post this info and your comment spurred my memory to do so. Thanks. Nice to have more info on the history. Jul 24, 2016
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
 
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
 
Additionally, I talked with a longtime LA Mountaineer/local climber that said Ken Ewing and company used to climb on this rock (and Battleship Rock) in the 1950s! It stands to reason they climbed this crack then as it's the most obvious and logical gear-protectable line on the wall. Jul 23, 2016