Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 985 ft, 8 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Mike Munger and Bill Nicholson, 1972|
|Page Views:||309 total · 17/month|
|Shared By:||Prametheus on Jul 14, 2016|
DescriptionPitch for pitch, this is one of the best climbing routes in the Sceetons! Great movement on mostly very good rock. Stellar position above Lake Taminah and across from Mt. Wister. Climbs to the top of Cloudveil Dome.
P1: Sloping left facing dihedral up on good rock and through blockier terrain to ledge. 6
P2: Up face, trending right somewhat to a blocky left facing dihedral. Up dihedral to belay stance of your choice. 7
P3: Continue up from here on fun terrain. This pitch will converge with a large ramp known as the Mathews Ramp. There is a sweet hand crack in a right facing corner directly below the pitch 4 column. Climb up this crack (5.8) or avoid it.
Move the belay to a convenient spot to give your partner a good ride for this next pitch.
Simul-climbing these three pitches is a very good idea if you are comfortable with doing so.
P4: Up the ramp then cut right towards the obvious crack that gains access to the right facing corner. Extend protection w slings on this traverse. Head up the corner until a decent stance appears for a hanging belay. Build the belay here. 10
P5: Continue up the splitter corner until it terminates. Look for the obvious, left facing corner and build it where you're most comfortable. You can build the belay in a number of places. Ortenburger suggests building it underneath the massive roof on the steep ramp, just to the left of the next pitch. We put the belay directly under the crux pitch. Little bits of rock came down on belayer. Nothing crazy but noteworthy. 9
P6: Crux pitch. Maybe 10c or 10d. Boogie up the corner and over the roof. Build the belay directly below the massive slot.
P7: Head up the slot, pull the bulge and dance up one of the best splitters you might ever find in the Tetons. When the crack disappears, choose your own adventure up the face to the massive ledge and build the comfiest belay yet. 8 according to guidebooks. May seem harder to some.
P8. Ok so now you are on the ledge. There is a squeeze chimney somewhere on this ledge that will you take you up for another pitch. We chose to bypass the squeeze and here is beta on our finish:
Head east on the grass and build the belay by the dark chimney with the chockstone. We bypassed this and climbed the rock on the outside of the chimney. A quick pitch to another grassy ledge. Not sure the grade. My buddy didn't place any gear.
Stash the ropes, put your tennies on and scramble to the summit!
Park at Lupine Meadows Trailhead and book it up to the meadows. From the meadows, head towards the South Fork of Garnet Canyon. Aim for the col in between Cloudveil Dome and Nez Perce and enjoy steep talus along the way up. Stash any extra gear here at the col.
Head down the steep gully directly south of the col and look for a very obvious red dike heading off to the right. Head down this rocky, loose gully just a little bit until you can begin climbing up and around the right side. Follow this ledge and be amazed once immaculate, fine grained granite appears. The route states here in a sloping left facing corner.
- **To locate this climb, make sure to look for the right facing dihedral high up on the rock face. Check posted photo.
Descent: Follow the East ridge back down to the col to pick up any stashed gear.
- **Ice Axe may be necessary to access the col. In the early season or in a big snow year, ice axe may be necessary to head down the col and the red dike.