Type: Trad, 1200 ft, Grade III
FA: M. Goat
Page Views: 895 total · 19/month
Shared By: Ryan Marsters on Apr 5, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details


From the southern point of the western flank, climb up and left on red slabs on the south side of the west flank. At the transition from red to white rock, traverse a ledge north/left and continue up a shallow weakness on the central-north side of the west face. Eventually, the slabs steepen. Aim for a gully splitting the summit plateau. The gully has a few sandy frictiony spots (5.0) prior to topping out on the ridge (most may want to rap this on the way down). Follow sand and scrub ledges east until a weakness in the summit plateau. Scramble up the summit hoodoo.


TH: Pullout where Pine Creek crosses the highway 0.1 mi east of the Zion-Mt Carmel Tunnel.

Follow the upper Pine Creek drainage a couple hundred yards until a weakness on left. Contour up 3rd and 4th class to the Bighorn/Deertrap saddle (easiest to pass headwalls on right - look for petroglyphs).
Head down Spry Canyon. Rap 165 ft (either leave a rope with a note to re-ascend or plan on descending Spry Canyon) and continue down canyon. Leave the canyon around the 5400 elevation and scramble up third class red slabs.


Webbing and rope for raps, slings for bushes. Either leave a rope/note at Spry's rap 1 (165 ft) or bring enough rope to descend Spry Canyon.