Type: Trad, 1200 ft, Grade III
FA: M. Goat
Page Views: 596 total · 18/month
Shared By: Ryan Marsters on Apr 5, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details


From the southern point of the western flank, climb up and left on red slabs on the south side of the west flank. At the transition from red to white rock, traverse a ledge north/left and continue up a shallow weakness on the central-north side of the west face. Eventually, the slabs steepen. Aim for a gully splitting the summit plateau. The gully has a few sandy frictiony spots (5.0) prior to topping out on the ridge (most may want to rap this on the way down). Follow sand and scrub ledges east until a weakness in the summit plateau. Scramble up the summit hoodoo.


TH: Pullout where Pine Creek crosses the highway 0.1 mi east of the Zion-Mt Carmel Tunnel.

Follow the upper Pine Creek drainage a couple hundred yards until a weakness on left. Contour up 3rd and 4th class to the Bighorn/Deertrap saddle (easiest to pass headwalls on right - look for petroglyphs).
Head down Spry Canyon. Rap 165 ft (either leave a rope with a note to re-ascend or plan on descending Spry Canyon) and continue down canyon. Leave the canyon around the 5400 elevation and scramble up third class red slabs.


Webbing and rope for raps, slings for bushes. Either leave a rope/note at Spry's rap 1 (165 ft) or bring enough rope to descend Spry Canyon.


Courtney Pace   Sandy
The first rap into spry can easily be downclimbed. You just have to jump off a dryfall to sand that is like 8 feet tall at the very end.(might not be able to climb back up w/o rope) To go totally ropeless you can topout twin brothers and descend the northwest ridge. A few feet of vertical juggy 5.7 moves off the top leads to loose downclimbing. From there you can hit up MOS as well or loop straight back between Deertrap and Twin Brothers to where you started. Nov 27, 2016
Ryan Marsters
Ryan Marsters  
Agreed the first rap, (including the final 8 ft to a ledge prior to the potential pool) is climbable down and up for strong climbers; however, note the rap frequently holds ice in the colder seasons. Nov 28, 2016
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Approach from bottom also possible. Zion free and clean gives this 5.5 rating.

spencerweiler.blogspot.com/… Dec 28, 2016
Richard Shore
Richard Shore  
Supertopo calls this the South Face and rates it 5.5. Here it is described as the West Face 5.0. Looking at a topographic map, it should most certainly be called the Southwest Face. Not a move of 5th class on the whole thing - downclimbing the rap in Spry Canyon and descending the NW ridge were both harder than the route. Fun scramble Mar 13, 2017