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Routes in The Black Wall

Bon Voyage T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clipper Ship T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Schooner T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: 1970's?
Page Views: 157 total, 7/month
Shared By: Nick Black on Dec 17, 2015 with updates
Admins: Rick Shull, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Arching finger crack right and below Clipper Ship, same finish as Clipper Ship. Surprisingly steep!

Location

right of Clipper, tied block for an anchor or a 4 and a 5 if you have it.

Protection

Small gear, blue metolious is the smallest needed

Photos

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Mike Horan
San Francisco, CA
  5.7+
Mike Horan   San Francisco, CA
  5.7+
Some questionable rock quality in spots. Had little pieces break off while climbing it. The finger crack right before it joins up with the 5.6 and the hand crack after that seemed solid enough for cams though.

I couldn't find where to put the larger cams for the anchor? The top was all loose rock, so ended up building the anchor at the top of the crack which made for a less than ideal walk off.

Easier than it looks from the ground. No move harder than 5.7, added the + due to rock quality. Sep 5, 2017