Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 102 total · 2/month
Shared By: Ray Lovestead on Aug 28, 2015
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is a crack that begins on a ledge and jogs right and up through the obvious butt crack. It has 3 distinct cruxes: a slap move, then a flairing hand crack, then a lieback grunt at the top.

I can only claim to have fallen all over this climb. My two buddies who led it clean called it 5.11c. If anyone can please provide info about the FA or name or rating, please chime in.

Lots of dirt and plant matter was pulled from this guy, but there is no chance we're the first.

Location

This is left of Unknown Sport Route on the ass end of East LA. Park at last campsite, and walk around the south end. Hike off to the North.

Protection

A blue TCU for the start keeps you off the deck. Back it up, and you'll be fine for the rest of the route. Place 2 small guys for the start and #0.75 - #2 for the rest. Save a couple #1s and/or #2s for an anchor at the top. DO NOT toprope this route. It will eat your rope (the crack) and scour it. Belay your second from above.

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