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Routes in Independence Crag

23 Karat T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
24 Karat T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
999 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Avoid the Noid T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Harvest Mode T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Ivan the Impaler T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Project: Steeptitude T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Slabbyville S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
TBD T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 95 ft
FA: Pat Rinehart
Page Views: 207 total · 5/month
Shared By: L. Von Dommelheimer on Aug 8, 2015
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Access Issue: Private property with public access. Be mindful to keep climbing accessible!! Details
Access Issue: Private property with public access. Be mindful to keep climbing accessible!! Details

Description

This route climbs up between two corner systems past a drill hole and then past an iron rod (don't impale yourself) it continues up passing many bolts and gear placements.

It's best to extend the bolt that is further left than all the rest.

There are many bolts in the last 20ft of climbing, and fewer at the bottom.

Location

Left of Slabbyville

Protection

9 bolts, gear to 3 inches, two bolt rap anchor.

Photos

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C. Williams
the Climber Cave
  5.10-
C. Williams   the Climber Cave
  5.10-
Plug a cam under the roof and skip the bolt out of line to the left to reduce drag. Oct 12, 2015
L. Von Dommelheimer
Anchorage
 
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
 
The noid has been voided. We were able to pull the spike out of the wall in just a few minutes. Happy falling! Edit: the noid, according to pat and Jason, is, in fact, the block that is cabled on. Avoid that... May 16, 2016
Mat Brunton  
 
  • spoiler alert*...but this will save you from taking more gear than needed:

Plug a #3 BD cam between 2nd and 3rd bolts. Plug a #2 between 5th and 6th bolts. With only those two cams the route is very well protected with the existing bolts.

My advice is to clip the furthest left bolt (that protects the first roof) with an extended draw, both to reduce rope drag and protect the carabiner (a standard quickdraw would likely have the carabiner sitting on lip of roof). A cam under the roof, as suggested by C. Williams, is unnecessary and won't protect you as well in case of a fall while pulling the roof. Jun 24, 2016

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