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Routes in Reed Creek Wall

After the Gold Rush S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
American Express T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mastercard S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pickpocket T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown 2 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 3 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: David Whitelaw, Dave Freeman 1989
Page Views: 80 total, 3/month
Shared By: Mat Brunton on Aug 5, 2015
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Description

Climb starts on the right side of the streaked wall, before the large roof, next to a detached boulder feature with a corner. Climb the corner with crack, formed by the boulder and wall, to a ledge above. Make a move or two direct from the ledge to the first bolt on the wall. Continue up trending slightly right on cracked rock with chickenheads. Top out just left of a relatively wet streak coming from the tundra. Cross the tundra ledge to a nice two bolt anchor. This route is relatively clean but there is some lichen.

A variation of this climb starts to the right of the detached boulder feature and follows the crack that goes up the wall where the roof starts. This variation could be very high quality with some cleaning, but is currently dirty and vegetated.

Location

Right side of the first streaked section of wall before the large roof.

Protection

2 bolts, gear to 2" (slings for chickenheads), 2 bolt anchor

Photos

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