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Routes in Sentinel Butte

Great Roof, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hell's Heaven S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Powerline Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 5.8 TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unnamed 5.8 T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Volkswagen Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: Alex Green and Dustin Snyder (July 2015)
Page Views: 230 total, 8/month
Shared By: AlexGreen on Jun 29, 2015
Admins: Jason Halladay

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Description

A continuous and aesthetic fist to offwidth crack scaling the entire height of the easternmost cliff on the shady north-facing side of the butte. Commit to the 5.8 thin-fist crux about twenty feet off the deck and then cruise up the featured offwidth for the remainder of the pitch. Pure fun!

Some obviously loose blocks were pulled off the route prior to the first ascent, but be aware that there could still be friable rock in places. Test suspect holds before yarding on them.

Location

Park in the big gravel patch just north-west of the easternmost (smaller) radio tower. Squeeze through the very cool narrow slot chimney and downclimb a few 4th class moves to get to the base of the cliff (alternately, scramble down the scree a little further west), then follow the wall about 30 feet east.

Protection

Use earth anchors set back from the cliff a ways to rig up a top rope. The climb itself takes mostly size 3-4 Camalots, but there is a small horizontal break above the crux that will take finger sized cams.

WARNING: For your safety, please do *not* place pro behind the right-leaning flake/crack guarding the top of the crux.

Photos

Dsnydes
  5.8
Dsnydes  
  5.8
It is rumored the first ascentionists used their German automobile as an anchor to establish this route.. Jun 30, 2015