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Routes in Upper Snake Eyes Wall

Access Pitch S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Copperhead S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Diamondback S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Faith S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Home-school Ballerina S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Luck of the Irish S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Hand T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Off the Couch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
One Handicap T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Poudre Kind of Groove T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sidewinder S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Soul S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
When My Body Dies S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: N. Kaufman
Page Views: 1,129 total · 27/month
Shared By: Ben Scott on Apr 30, 2015 with updates from Boulderdoc Kaufman
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Climb an interesting gaston layback boulder problem which trends up and left to a small corner then launch up a technical short arete to a small roof. Here, an interesting sequence of slopers and wide technical compression will engender the start of a pumpy redpoint crux encounter. Gain huge blocky holds and a solid rest before a final run-out 5.8 section to the chains. You could carry or place a mid sized cam which is much less exciting but would protect a large but safe potential fall from easy terrain. 

Location

It is on the upper tier of the Upper Snake Eyes Wall. The approach is mildly technical either way: crawl through a bouldery maze to a squeeze-hole right above Diamondback, or climb a short, easy bolted traverse on the opposing wall to anchors. Lowering back down is easy for the climber and belayer after climbing/cleaning from your TR.

Protection

8 bolts + anchor.

Photos

dyager Yager
Fort Collins
  5.13a
dyager Yager   Fort Collins
  5.13a
vimeo.com/131119292 Jun 18, 2015
What's with the runout at the top? It looks like falling while clipping the anchor could result in a groundfall. Even if it was '5.easy', it's possible to slip on that slick, Poudre granite if you are really pumped. Not sure if Dan skips a bolt in his video, but I see a few potentially protectable cracks. Anyone know if you can get a cam placement before the anchor? The route looks Amazing! Oct 19, 2015
Elijah Flenner
Fort Collins, CO
 
Elijah Flenner   Fort Collins, CO
 
I don't think you would deck if something happened at the top, but the runout is a little unnecessary and potentially dangerous. There are several good cam placements through the runout section, but I would be more concerned about the rock quality in that section. One more bolt would make the route much safer, and I am a little confused why they did not place one more bolt. Oct 20, 2015
Ben Scott
Fort Collins, CO
 
Ben Scott   Fort Collins, CO
 
Bwahahaha!
Not the only route from Mr. Kaufman with some spice to the anchor!
Haven't climbed on this yet so I can't judge...but I bet a bolt is needed. Oct 21, 2015
Boulderdoc Kaufman
Fort Collins, Colorado
 
Boulderdoc Kaufman   Fort Collins, Colorado
 
This route is so MEGA! So the run-out... you basically get a no hands full recovery after the 5.13 bit and then do a fun little 5.9 to the anchors on great holds. I took a victory whip from the anchors for fun and ended up halfway down the route, so there is no deck potential. I think the spice adds to the allure of the route, and as the developer, I say just go and check it out and see. It's not so bad and may even put a little hair on your chest! If you are not psyched, bring a cam and you will feel better. Enjoy! Apr 28, 2018

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