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Routes in Last Turn Crag

Benchmark, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pale Corner S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rock Wars S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Cameron Cross
Page Views: 74 total, 2/month
Shared By: Damon Vaughan on Nov 9, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a good route once you get past the first two bolts, which is awful choss. After clipping the second bolt, you launch into a very cool boulder problem where some foot trickery allows you to lock off on some small crimps. Once you get on the black streak, the holds are amazing, and the climbing is easy until one more crux around the last bolt and a wild move to finish. Insanely sandbagged at 11b, I suspect holds have broken. It felt more mid to upper 5.12 to me.

Location

This goes up the center of the wall, up the black streak.

Protection

Five bolts, the anchors are off to the left. If you are toproping, it would be good to extend the anchors, because otherwise the rope runs over a ledge.

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Ben Scott
Fort Collins, CO
Ben Scott   Fort Collins, CO
This route was bolted around the time the Poudre Canyon guidebook was nearing completion. Cam was tired of people bickering over the grades we planned on suggesting for some of the routes in the canyon. He named this route "The Benchmark" in a quiet backlash to all the whining. He knew good and well it was much harder than 11b but figured this route would get very little traffic, so it didn't matter.

I moved the anchor to a better position and updated the hardware. 01/23/15 Dec 15, 2014