Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Ethan Coon,equipped by Hagen Telg
Page Views: 1,048 total · 20/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Jul 27, 2014
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

The steepest 5.12 in the area. Overhanging pocket pulling from start to finish. It originally had a higher anchor but after a broken hold resulted in the route being "too futuristic" for us, we moved the anchor down. Pretty sharp holds so try to be precise and controlled. Then, sometime later, a good clipping hold at the anchor broke, too, making it a bit more tenuous and difficult. 

In June 2015, Ed Strang added an extension to this route, Broken Desire 43, that goes at 13b past one more bolt to the higher anchor.

Location

Right side of the cave. Start just as the ground really starts to slope down.

Protection

3 bolts to anchor.

Photos

Grindrite
  5.12c
Grindrite  
  5.12c
Fun route!!! Heads Up, clipping hold at second bolt seems a little suspect.... Jul 21, 2015
Andrew Schmalzer  
  5.12
~10 moves on mostly positive holds- some power required. Best route we did today, although too short to consider a classic. Felt similar in difficulty to slope a dope at the dungeon. Sep 20, 2015