Type: Snow, Alpine, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,690 total · 68/month
Shared By: Jennifer L on Jun 23, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

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Typically done over 3 or 4 days.

On day 1, hike into Glacier Meadows. There is a rope ladder over loose scree that you have to down-climb located a few miles from Glacier Meadows. Otherwise, the trail is fairly straightforward to follow, albeit long.

Day 2 is summit day. Hike to top of the lateral moraine east of the Blue Glacier. Descend to the glacier over the loose moraine. The glacier travel is fairly moderate and easy-going. Depending on conditions, you can choose to traverse across or around the Five Fingers rock formation. After the false summit, you have two choices for the summit pyramid. One is to scramble the class 4 loose rock on the NW side. The second is to climb the 5.4 route on the north side, which is much more solid than the first option and somewhat protectable. For both routes, you may need to down-climb into a moat to attain the rock. The rappel down the north side of the summit pyramid usually requires a 60m rope.

Day 3 is your long hike out.

Olympic Mountains: A Climbing Guide by Olympic Mountain Rescue has the best description of this route.


If you opt to climb the 5.4 route, a 60m rope is recommended to rappel from the summit block. Other than that, a light alpine rack of alpine draws, cams (in BD C4 sizes #.5, #.75, #1, #2), and set of nuts should suffice to climb the single ~100' pitch. You can probably get by with less depending on your comfort level with climbing on loose rock.
Max Leitner
Seattle, Washington
Max Leitner   Seattle, Washington
Regarding the summit block gear; a #.75, #2.5, and nuts will protect the route just fine. As of 06/30/15 there is an intermediate belay/rap station if you only have one 30m rope. Aug 5, 2016
Vikram Sahney
Seattle, WA
Vikram Sahney   Seattle, WA
We did this route in 2 long days (35 hours car-to-car). We departed the Hoh Visitor Parking lot about 7am and hiked the first 9 miles in 3 hours. We reached the top of Snow Dome at 6:30pm where we set up camp. Last running water was available on the lower glacier (surface melt) or on the lateral moraine trail. Plenty of running water every mile or two on the rest of the hike in. On the second day we departed Snow Dome at 4:30am and summited via the standard North Face ~5.4 climb. We fixed the line and our 2nd and 3rd climber ascended with a prusik belay so it was faster. We rappelled/lowered our 2nd climber and then our 3rd climber leveraged the intermediate anchor since we were using a 30m rope. Great climb. Agree with the pro mentioned below. We did the whole hike/climb in the same lightweight hikers. We then hiked all the way back out reaching the visitor lot at 6:10pm. Aug 28, 2017