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Routes in Cathedral Peak

Monk - Le Gibet, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monk - Odine, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monk - Scabo, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Monk - West Cracks - Left Crack, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monk - West Cracks - Right Crack, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
NE Ridge T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
SE Buttress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
South Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, Grade III
FA: 07/1973
Page Views: 2,351 total · 46/month
Shared By: applewood on Jun 12, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

SE Buttress 5.9 **** III (9-10 pitches)
A fine crack climb, following the ridge behind "The Monk" (semi-detatched feature on the lower right side of the South face). The 1st pitch crux (headwall) can be bypassed by using the crack on the left (5.8).

Location

Begin to the left of The Monk and climb the ridge and buttress on right side of the South Face.

Descend by to the West by the walk-up route.

Protection

A wide selection of nuts and cams (up to #3 Camalot).
Steph Abegg
Bellingham, WA
Steph Abegg   Bellingham, WA
Awesome climb. One of the best moderate alpine climbs I've done in the Cascades. Aug 1, 2016
Chase Giltner
Seattle, WA
  5.10a
Chase Giltner   Seattle, WA
  5.10a
What a great climb! Gabe led most of the pitches and even following I found most of the pitches to be pretty damn vertical and stout.

Regarding beta, Steph Abegg's photos and description on her site are incredibly detailed and got us through the route pretty easily.

I put the route at 10a due to the first 2 headwall pitches (p8 and p9). The start of the first headwall pitch is flaring, delicate climbing that seemed to be a touch more than 9+. The second headwall pitch has the great 10a finger crack that should be part of the standard route topo because no one should be crazy enough to haul BD 4's and 5's 20 miles to do the offwidth pitch (*cough* Jordan...) 18 hours ago

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