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Routes in Resolution Bluff

A-Tree-Ehh S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Calling Out S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cookin the Captain AKA Divine Guidance T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Direct Genie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kids in a Candy Store T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Late Break-Up T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Love Sickness T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Resolution Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Roof-oh-lution S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Skytop T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Slow Starter T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sonny Bloch's Real Estate Show S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toprope Crack 1 TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toprope Crack 2 TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tweakin the Genie S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Chris Williams, Alicia Driscoll, Kelsey Gray, Kyle Arzt
Page Views: 525 total, 11/month
Shared By: C. Williams on Jan 25, 2014
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

You & This Route


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Description

Climb Resoultion Crack but skip the first anchor and continue direct. Pull through two steep bulges on good holds and continue direct to the top. Still a few loose chips but good rock overall.

  • A variation of this upper face was climbed by Kelsey Gray and Kyle Arzt on runout and marginal gear. A number of those gear placements were likely pulled off during cleaning.

Protection

Gear to 1.5in, 7 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

Photos

Mat Brunton
  5.10a
Mat Brunton  
  5.10a
Getting up Resolution Crack is beast. A blue BD X4 (.3) protected the lower crack nicely and kept me from decking. The guidebook gear description seemed too small. I only had purple BD X4s (.5) and made them work, placing two in the crack before reaching the first bolt, but a green X4 (.75) seems like it would have been better. Make two or three placements in the crack (starting with the first from the ground) and then move to bolts up Kids in a Candy Store. Res Crack is definitely the crux, but the climbing is sustained and thoughtful to the upper anchors for Kids. Res Crack seems harder than 5.10d's that I've lead. Kids seems true to its 5.10a rating. Jun 3, 2015
L. Von Dommelheimer
Anchorage
  5.10-
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
  5.10-
Super fun route! crux is the crack at the bottom! Willy P. added a new bolt today that helps avoid a potentially gnarly whip into a big ol' tree. Still nice and heady with some well spaced bolts. An area classic! Feb 2, 2014