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Routes in Main Wall

Dihedral, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: late 70's
Page Views: 119 total · 2/month
Shared By: applewood on Jan 17, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

The Dihedral  5.8 *** 110' G
A classic line up the first huge dihedral you come to along the Main Canyon trail (just above the jumble of huge boulders on the canyon floor). Climb the corner and face to the left to belay at the large boulder on top. Be careful of possible loose rock in the upper corner.

Take the grading with a grain of salt, as it has been called everything from a 5.7 to a hard 5.9... so, I split the difference with the rating here.

Location

The obvious corner about a third of the way down the Main canyon (directly across from the McLaughlin Canyon interpretive sign on the road). Head right to the base of the corner just before the cluster of huge boulders (about 5 minutes walk for the parking turn out). Walk off along the terrace to the north or continue up the face above...

Protection

Wide range of gear needed. Since it was first climbed long ago it's obvious it can be done without cams, but a full range of them will probably help the modern climber considerably.

Photos

Herm Harrison
Bishop, CA
  5.7+
Herm Harrison   Bishop, CA
  5.7+
If this is the main corner that everyone climbed in the 70's, Nick Schindler and I continued to the rim around 1983 in about 3 or 4 pitches. The climbing was progressively easier and looser as we went, several large blocks were inadvertently trundled. We called the route to the rim "No More Forever." Probly 5.8 or 5.9 R.

Mitch Merriman and I climbed the gigantic overhang to the right around the same time. It went in 3 pitches to the rim, we wiggled over huge flakes and then underclinged thru the great roof. We called it "the great roof." 3 pitches, 5.9 or maybe 10a.

Mitch and Nick and I did several other routes on the main tallest wall in the canyon. A 2 pitch slanting crack upcanyon we called "psychic debris" 5.8. The big chimney we called "Hookah" 5.8. Downcanyon above the road we did a 3 pitch climb thru the obvious big roof visible from 395. The thin crack direct finish we called "balls of the walrus" 5.10aish. The easier finish left we called "wussy the walrus" 5.7. The roof has huge features and is easy.

I haven't climbed in the canyon since the 80's, I wonder what I would think of it now? Oct 21, 2018
Kyle Elliott
Everett, WA
Kyle Elliott   Everett, WA
Herm, thanks for the info of some of these routes. This area has such a rich history of bold climbing, even though it is quickly turning into another overbolted sport climbing destination. Oct 22, 2018

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