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Routes in Tarantula Ledge

Tarantula T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 259 total, 5/month
Shared By: Kurtz on Nov 15, 2013
Admins: Morgan Patterson

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Scramble up the slope to the start of the corner. Sling a tree and/or place a 3"-5" cam in the crack. Up you go. Route finding is a non-issue.

The route is covered in gray lichen. Bring a stiff brush if you don't lich it.


The large 3 foot right-facing corner that bisects the slab.

Rapp off the quick links on the fixed metal cable. A 60m rope gets you down with a little to spare.


Cams and larger nuts. There is a 3/8" metal cable anchor (with quick links) at the top that you can use for TR or rappelling.


Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
Back sometime in the 1990's Ken Nichols told me about "another wall" at St John's that had a 5.8 "crack / corner" in it. His hiking directions were less than precise, but it would seem that "This is the Place!". Jan 27, 2015