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Routes in Upper Tier

Arachnophobia S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bad Boys S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chelsea Grin S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Curbie S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Delusions S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Diluted S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dirty Girls S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dirty Hippie S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Good Girls S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Groove Dynamics S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hippie Girls S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jungle Cruiser S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Liquid Gold S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Mohawk S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Narcissist S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Skinned Alive S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Spasm S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Taxidermy S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Thunderbolt S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Water Torture S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Grahm Doe and Brent Webster
Page Views: 937 total, 19/month
Shared By: MattMyers on Sep 24, 2013
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb the huge roof and keep going up the overhanging face.

Location

Right of Groove dynamics and left of liquid gold.

Protection

15 permadraws

Photos

John Ericson
USA
5.12d
John Ericson   USA
5.12d
Stellar climb!

The route starts about two bolts below the ground. I was told that this was pretty easy climbing, in comparison to the bulk of the moves. The original grade is maintained after the rock fall due to the slab rest at the start of the route. From here, it is an endurance battle through the roof and onto the face until one reaches the next slab, where one gets a full recovery rest. 3 final mini cruxes guard the anchors. While none are harder than V3, they are not immediately obvious and tricky enough for one to blow it.

For some reason, it is not uncommon to see folks get shut down on the initial slab section

I know more people that regard this as 13a than I do who call it 12d, although one guy sand bagged me calling it 12c.

FA: Grahm Doe and Brent Webster Jul 23, 2015