Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Grahm Doe and Brent Webster
Page Views: 1,125 total · 17/month
Shared By: MattMyers on Sep 24, 2013
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the huge roof and keep going up the overhanging face.

Location

Right of Groove dynamics and left of liquid gold.

Protection

15 permadraws

Photos

John Ericson
A Toyota Prius Luxury Mobil…
5.12d
John Ericson   A Toyota Prius Luxury Mobil…
5.12d
Stellar climb!

The route starts about two bolts below the ground. I was told that this was pretty easy climbing, in comparison to the bulk of the moves. The original grade is maintained after the rock fall due to the slab rest at the start of the route. From here, it is an endurance battle through the roof and onto the face until one reaches the next slab, where one gets a full recovery rest. 3 final mini cruxes guard the anchors. While none are harder than V3, they are not immediately obvious and tricky enough for one to blow it.

For some reason, it is not uncommon to see folks get shut down on the initial slab section

I know more people that regard this as 13a than I do who call it 12d, although one guy sand bagged me calling it 12c.

FA: Grahm Doe and Brent Webster Jul 23, 2015