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Routes in Sex on the Beach boulder

Dog Fight V5 6C
Jimbo's V4 6B
Mark's Arete V5 6C
Mary's First Time V7 7A+
Proud Mary V9 7C
Sex on the Beach V5-6 6C+
Wash Out V6 7A
Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: Brian Capps
Page Views: 338 total, 7/month
Shared By: Ben Mangelsdorf on Sep 18, 2013
Admins: Dave Hug

You & This Route


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Description

This extremely overhung line follows incut crimpers to the top of the boulder. Starting on two small jugs, either explode up and right to a small but positive crimp or reach your left hand to a bad slopey edge and lock off to the incut crimp. From here, get your left foot very high, and get left hand to a small gaston far away, using the incut intermediate next to it or just going straight to it. Grab a couple good holds and do a simple top out. As far as I know, this is the second hardest problem at the Beach. A lower start on two bad crimps may be possible when the sand is low... So iLL strong men, get out there!

Location

Right side of the overhung Sex on the Beach face. Walk off boulder to get off.

Protection

Optional pads

Photos

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