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Routes in Labedan - Right

A nous deux T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Babord tribord S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beding bedang T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Directissime T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Fruitée T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gromlech T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gueule de loup T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Huggies Stay Dry T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Interruption T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Intrusion Direct S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
L'Abeille T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
L'Entre deux S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
L'Envouté / Yukon BC T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Le Dièdre T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Le Gouffre T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Le Rampart T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Le Revenant S,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Le Surplomb T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Les Mouches noires T,TR 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
L’Éperon T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Marché noir T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Menhir T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mini Superman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Momo T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mr. Sécuriter T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Plein les mains T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Renversante T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rive gauche T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sans-Nom T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Souvenir S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sutounu T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Trident T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trilogie T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: Andre & Marianne Laperriere
Page Views: 371 total, 7/month
Shared By: Greg Kuchyt on Aug 19, 2013
Admins: Luc-514

You & This Route


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This cliffs is insured by the FQME Details

Description

Punch through the low crux to good holds and a rest ledge. Continue to follow the crack through some moderate climbing. Finish up a wide crack to the bolted anchor.

Location

The obvious fetching tight-hands to off-finger splitter that startsnear the middle of the main wall.

Protection

Standard rack to 3"
Fixed anchor at top.

Photos

Luc-514
Montreal, Quebec
  5.10c/d
Luc-514   Montreal, Quebec  
  5.10c/d
My friend lost feeling in her pinky for a couple months, it's some tough jamming depending on your hand size and reach.
I can't lead it, flailed a lot before managing it, takes a while to dial it... Sep 18, 2015
Francis QC
Montreal
Francis QC   Montreal
Thanks for the quick answer Greg! I'll work on it again next time Sep 17, 2015
Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
 
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
 
It will depend on the size of your hand!

If you can't get a hand or tight hand jam look at doing a ring lock (finger stack). Don't forget about jamming your feet!

A good resource for learning jamming techniques is The Crack Climber's Technique Manual by Kent Pease. Sep 17, 2015
Francis QC
Montreal
Francis QC   Montreal
Can someone enlighten me with beta on how to jam your hands and/or fingers for the first tier? I've worked the crack on top rope to lead Trident but I'am obviously missing something here... I've never been so miserable on a project.

Beta from someone who has actually done the climb on lead please!

Thanks Sep 17, 2015