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Routes in Mt. Maude

North Face AI2
Type: Ice, Alpine, 1750 ft, Grade III
FA: Fred Beckey, Don Gordon, John Rupley, Herb Staley
Page Views: 564 total, 11/month
Shared By: Aaron Nash on Jul 6, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

From camp at Leroy Creek Basin, ascend to the col between Seven Finger Jack and Maude. From the col, traverse over several shoulders until you're able to descend to the western edge of the South Entiat Glacier at 7300ft.

Ascend 35-45 degree snow up the lower part of the route staying in between two prominent rock buttresses. Continue ascending the face as it steepens up to 65 degrees towards the top. Scramble the final few feet to the summit.

Beware of a large cornice that forms on the summit ridge. This cornice can make climbing the right side of the route dangerous if it hasn't fallen yet.

Descent:
Standard south-southwest ridge back to Leroy Creek Basin

Location

From the Phelps Creek TH, hike 3.7 miles and cross a creek. Turn right onto the Leroy Creek Trail and ascend several miles into Leroy Creek Basin. Flat ground for campsites can be found at 6200ft.

Protection

Pickets and a few ice screws for the upper section. It depends on the condition of the snow and the type of winter that was had that year.

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