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Routes in The Plunger

North Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
West Face T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dave Anderson & Rob Feeney 1999
Page Views: 859 total, 15/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on May 20, 2013
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park! Details

Description

A short two-pitch route up the awesome Plunger pinnacle. The first ascent party severely overrated the crux pitch at 5.12a/b. From my experience (based on Indian Creek and Yosemite-style splitter cracks), this is no harder than about 5.11b.

Climb moderate snow and cross a bergschrund to access the base of the rock. Many possible starts are available, I will describe the obvious one we took.

P1) 5.6-5.7, ~80'. Up a low-angle left-facing dihedral to a belay in a notch from boulders with fixed rappel slings.

P2) 5.11, 50'. Scramble up and right through a notch from the belay, then up the slightly overhanging splitter #1 camalot sized crack (crux). Follow the crack as it bends right and narrows to fingers and the exposure increases dramatically. Belay from fixed slings at the top of the flake/crack, or continue another 10' up easy 5th class crack to the summit. Downclimb back to the sling anchor. This pitch could also be easily aided/French-freed at C1.

Location

An obvious left-facing dihedral on the west face of the Plunger marks the first pitch. Rappel with a single 60m cord from fixed rappel slings.

Protection

Standard rack to 3". Two #1 camalot sized pieces are handy for the P2 crux. Rappel with a single 60m cord from fixed slings.

Photos

Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
 
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
 
A really snowy May of 2016 made this a perfect objective. We ended up building an anchor at the base, due to the high snow levels. Would have loved to try the North face variation, but a ledge of snow would have made this pretty interesting. Very easy to french free the west face, and the exposure is excellent. Seems like the 11b rating is pretty spot on. Jun 1, 2016