Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Arrowhead

Checker V2 5+
JW Direct V4 6B
Lock Tight V2 5+
North Slab V1 5 PG13
STP V3 6A PG13
Slick 50 V8 7B
South Face V1 5 PG13
WD-40 V4 6B
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 942 total · 14/month
Shared By: Tony Brengosz on Mar 12, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Slick 50 has two different starts; the original stand start, and the somewhat paradoxical sit start, which is actually easier.

For the original, stand start on the mediocre underclings, and crank the powerful crux move out to the arete. Work your way up the arete until you make a small jump to a pinch. From here top out to the right via a somewhat technical and scary mantle.

For the sit start, start on a decent undercling on the bottom left side of the face. Slap to the arete, avoid the rock beneath you, and work your way up. Top out the same as the stand start.

As far as I know, either start is considered a legitimate ascent of the boulder. The sit start may be a little on the soft side for a V8, while the stand start feels pretty damn hard for an 8. I also think the sit start loses a bit of quality due to the fact that the crux move for me was not dabbing on the rock.

Location

Overhanging west face of the Arrowhead

Protection

Pad

Photos

Colby Wayment
Ogden, UT
Colby Wayment   Ogden, UT
I think the original top-out rocks up and left around the arete to finish up the north face, but I'm not 100% sure. Oct 6, 2014
For what it's worth, here is the description from the Black Bible guidebook:

"Start on two undercling edges. Punch to the blocky arete. Pull over onto the slab. Finish on the North face if you are looking for an exciting ending.

Variation 1: Slick 50 Direct V9. Start the same as the original line. Instead of pulling onto the slab, follow the arete and top out at the peak of the arete on the sloper. The jug along the lip is off.

Variation 2: V8. Climb variation 1 with the jug along the traverse."

Sounds like rocking over the slab is the original, and that "Variation 2" is what I described, and have seen most people do. I also think that "variation 2" makes the most sense, is the best line, and therefore is the highest quality version of Slick 50. Oct 12, 2014

More About Slick 50

Printer-Friendly