Type: Snow, Alpine, 3000 ft (909 m)
FA: Brad Washburn
Page Views: 1,226 total · 10/month
Shared By: A.P.Lee on Mar 7, 2013
Admins: L. Von Dommelheimer

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Access Issue: Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park! Details


Follow the Sunset Glacier to its upper basin and take the shorter southwesterly fork (watch for crevasses) to the small col below the peak's south ridge. From here, climb a steep snow slope to the north and cross a small basin to the east (beware of big cracks later in the summer). Gain the southeast ridge by climbing a short headwall (the routes crux). The slope here rolls to anywhere from 40-55 degrees (some may want to pitch out this short section because of a large bergschrund). Once on the ridge, go uphill to the summit, beware of cornices to the northeast and avalanche danger to the south. The route is essentially a corkscrew up the mountain.


Basic glacier travel set up (piolet, crampons, pickets, etc...).