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Routes in Changing the Stripes Buttress

Bayer S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Changing the Stripes S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Manilius
Page Views: 506 total · 8/month
Shared By: Manilius on Dec 2, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: This area is located on private property. Details

Description

The route can be found on the face adjoining Heart Rock to the East. It is a face route that is a little less than vertical, and is interspersed with moss and choss. Access the base by bushwhacking up the chasm between this face and Heart Rock, and climb a into the leftward slot until you start to see bolts. There is a belay station early of\n, but it is best to skip it and make the route one pitch. The moss and choss can be avoid with a little bit of care.

This route is a good antidote to the stress of the nearby Tachycardia.

Protection

Bolts all the way along and chains on top. Bring a 60m rope and a dozen draws or so.

Photos

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Matt Selman
Salt Lake City
 
Matt Selman   Salt Lake City
 
This route was drilled by Jason Stevens sometime in the 1990s (?). He was putting in enough routes at the time that he never got around to climbing it! According to Jason he had a surplus of angles at the time so the top section of this route is all bomber drilled and glued pitons. Originally designed to be climbed in one pitch, rapped in two. Dec 3, 2012

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