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Routes in Changing the Stripes Buttress

Bayer S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Changing the Stripes S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Sport, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Jason Stevens & Virgil Ash
Page Views: 3,610 total, 35/month
Shared By: Jason Stevens on May 6, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


47 Opinions

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This area is located on private property. Details

Description

P1:om the starting platform, climb up and into a
crack system. Stay left of the crack/coner (5.5) and
top out on the bulge at the first anchor station (50’).

P2: Climb a long angle, faint arete to a couple of
vertical steps. A short patina face leads to a couple
more steps and the next anchor station (5.5).

P3: Continue up the arete, clip a long sling on the
last bolt and top out on a platform. Move right
to the left leaning ramp/arete a follow it up and
through the slot to the summit. (5.4).

Location

Park at or near Anti-Gravity Rock (two
turns in the road below Box Canyon). Cross the creek
and stay left of a huge boulder and bush-whack
north up the draw. The vegetation is thick and there
is no trail as of 4.18.09. When you near some large
boulders on your right, move right and skirt the base
of the cliff. When “Heart Rock” comes into view above
you, climb a shallow gully on your left to a platform
roughly 30’ above the trees.

Protection

Bolts. Take long slings for the belay stations. A couple of long slings are helpful to reduce rope drag at the top of the pillar on P3.

You can do the entire route with one 60M rope. Sign the summit register!
rimoms  
A super fun route and perfect for climbers getting to know multipitch climbing.
I think 5.5 is a stretch for this route - more like 5.2 IMHO.
We had two parties of two with 70m ropes. We linked the first two pitches together to make it a two pitch climb. Two 70m ropes allowed us to rap from the summit, down the gully (on climbers right), and all the way to the base (with about 6 or 7 meters of rope left over on each line).
Beware of rope tangle when tossing ropes for rapping. The lines can wrap around the cobbles (up/down back/forth) and nearly lock up. This made cleaning my rap lines a PITA on the way down, but luckily did not happen when pulling the ropes after rapping. Oct 24, 2016
Dallas R
Traveling the USA
Dallas R   Traveling the USA
Turn out is also a little primitive campground. Wooden box sign says Private, donations accepted, climb at your own risk. Lugged boots for traction are better than approach shoes. Steep loose trail.

My partner says she is in love with whoever bolted the routes. Spaced 10-15 apart, easily spotted from the previous bolt, but eco-treated and difficult to spot from the belay station.

Summit log was pretty cool. Interesting to see where some of the folks that climbed this before you are from and what they had to say. 99% were stoked.

Climbing was pretty easy. Belay stations are comfortable for 2. A group would have issues. Raps are off the fall line. You have to work at staying on the arête to get to the anchors.

First time on conglomerate. Raised some rope drag issues. Up was ok, when we went to pull the rope from the rap we had lots of rope drag, had to pull hard. Then when the end fell, it did not follow the climb line, it fell sideways onto the conglomerate. A slight s curve caught a few nodules. We had our new rope that is still fairly slick, had we used old fluffy it could have been more interesting. Still took some flipping and tugging to get it loose.

This is a really good climb for people first starting out and wanting to test their skills in lead climbing multi-pitch. The low grade means you will concentrate more on managing a multi-pitch climb than on doing the climb. Mar 29, 2015
Emerson Takahashi
Casper, WY
  5.5
Emerson Takahashi   Casper, WY
  5.5
THERE ARE TWO DIFFERENT TRAILS THAT LEAD UP TO THE BASE OF THE CLIMB.
Take the trail marked by a cairn a little downhill of the campsite. This trail is fairly steep. Even though it seems like you head in the wrong direction for a little while, stay on the trail! Stay to the right of the big boulders and you'll be ok. It was our first time going up to CTS, and we were able to follow the trail without a problem(other than being exhausted!)

When you are done with the route, take the OTHER TRAIL that leads straight downward from the base of the climb that is a little steeper. Use this as the descent and get back to your car within 2-3 minutes. Be careful, its steep and the dirt is loose- you might fall on your ass.

This route might as well be 4 pitches :P Aug 30, 2014
Jeff Hofheins 1
Portland, OR
  5.5
Jeff Hofheins 1   Portland, OR
  5.5
The approach still doesn't really have any sort of trail. Lots of bushwacking! Jul 6, 2014
C Hopwood
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.5
C Hopwood   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.5
The approach is far harder than anything on the climb, otherwise this route would get more stars. Make no mistake, you will be tree-to-treeing up the slope to the climb so plan accordingly. Alex Abramov's photo in the beta section is taken from the pullout under the heart shaped rock. Enter the dry creek-bed in the back of the pullout and walk upstream a few hundred feet. There is a cairn on the right bank. Turn and scramble up the "trail" up to the base of the climb. Rap twice with a 70m rope, otherwise rap thrice. Jun 25, 2012
Alex Abramov
San Diego, CA
  5.4
Alex Abramov   San Diego, CA
  5.4
Super easy, super safe. This is a good route for very beginners and gym climbers. 5.4 (at a stretch, definitely 5.1 in terms of Yosemite or Tahquitz) Nov 11, 2011
wait. I thought it was shaped like a heart? May 16, 2011
KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
  5.6
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
  5.6
As you drive up the canyon on the right you'll see a huge wall and at the top of the wall you'll see a formation in the shape of a heart. This is heart rock. Directly left of it is a wall that holds this climb. I'll take a pic next time I'm up there. There is a pullout to the right, some old campfire. We cairned the trail up to it. May 16, 2011