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Routes in Cryptic Boulder

Cryptic Grips V6-7 7A+
Cryptic Magician V7 7A+
Cryptic Right V4 6B
Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 110 total, 2/month
Shared By: Chris Beh on Nov 28, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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This problem is a very fun variation to Cryptic Magician which starts to the right of that V7.

Start standing on a lower strata of rock with two good crimps for the hands on the slab below the little roof, a high right hold and a lower one for the left. Throw a high left foot onto a small edge, and with your hands still on the starting holds, rock onto your left foot. Now you can reach the obvious, chalked up flake at the lip of the roof. Bump past the good hold with your left to a small hold over the lip. At this point, you have joined the V7 and the finish is the same.

I thought the hardest move was grabbing with the left hand to the big, slanting hold at the end of the business. The topout above this good grip is a bit slopey, insecure, and requires good foot work to finish. It's wise to climb around the back and check if the finish needs the pine needles brushed off.

Protection's a boulder problem.


Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
I was interested in a lower start on the arete and then moving into this but abandoned it as too silly :) Jan 19, 2013
Chris Beh  
Hey Chip, I don't know that it was an FA. Owen Silver and I were over at Cryptic in July '12, and since we couldn't get off the ground off left, he started pulling on just where the photo shows. The starting holds seemed like they had been touched before. We didn't get it then, but he went back solo and sent this variation shortly after. I got it the day I took these photos of Owen in November. It's a fun and much easier way to get up the basic line...almost a completely different problem at easy V5. I checked your guide before I posted it...which is an awesome resource, BTW, thanks. Jan 19, 2013
Chip Phillips
Broomfield, CO
Chip Phillips   Broomfield, CO
It never occurred to me or anyone else I have spent time at Cryptic Magician with to come into it from the right and a whole new set of starting holds. Is it possible this was an FA or did someone else show it to you? Jan 19, 2013