Avg: 3 from 2 votes
|Type:||Boulder, 15 ft|
|Page Views:||110 total, 2/month|
|Shared By:||Chris Beh on Nov 28, 2012|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis problem is a very fun variation to Cryptic Magician which starts to the right of that V7.
Start standing on a lower strata of rock with two good crimps for the hands on the slab below the little roof, a high right hold and a lower one for the left. Throw a high left foot onto a small edge, and with your hands still on the starting holds, rock onto your left foot. Now you can reach the obvious, chalked up flake at the lip of the roof. Bump past the good hold with your left to a small hold over the lip. At this point, you have joined the V7 and the finish is the same.
I thought the hardest move was grabbing with the left hand to the big, slanting hold at the end of the business. The topout above this good grip is a bit slopey, insecure, and requires good foot work to finish. It's wise to climb around the back and check if the finish needs the pine needles brushed off.