Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Middle Obed

46&2 T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Flip S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Keeping up with the Jonses S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Latex Lover S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Who Do You Do S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Tony Robinson
Page Views: 928 total · 15/month
Shared By: Jason Young on Nov 10, 2012
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


14 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

For some, the crux of this route could be negotiating the offwidth/slab at the start. The face holds on this section seemed very polished. Although it was challenging climbing I felt it detracted a little from the quality of the route. Other than that, this is a fine route to get on! In reality, the upper steep section is more likely to thwart most onsight/redpoint attempts if this grade is near one's limit.

Past the offwidth/slab is a series of ledges with steep, blocky face climbing between them. Rest on the last big ledge (a 5.10b variation called "Left Hand Lover" moves left at this point) before the much steeper stuff and fire up through it to one last ledge from which the anchors can be clipped via an awkward reach to the left.

Reading the crux hand sequence can be helpful as there is a hold that seemed difficult to match on. Other than that, expect very large and positive holds!

Location

Located another couple of hundred yards past (to climber's left) of the route "Flip".

Protection

Eight bolts to cold-shut anchors.

Photos

Evan Schiewe  
 
Loose homemade cold shuts on rusty bolts make this fun to clean.

Great climb though! It's a single fun move at the top that makes this climb an 11. Mar 15, 2017
Really good climb. None of the moves were that tough. It's just a stamina battle jugg haul all the way to the top. Great route Nov 4, 2016