Avg: 2 from 2 votes
Routes in ABC Ramps
|"C" Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|A T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a|
|A-1 Climb T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a PG13|
|Absent Without Leave S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|B T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13|
|B Real T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|B-1 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Fuse T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Not To B T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Rainbow Warrior T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Type:||Trad, 60 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||John Kelbel & Vance Cole|
|Page Views:||559 total, 9/month|
|Shared By:||John Kelbel on Oct 31, 2012|
DescriptionFuse is an excellent first pitch to "Black Powder" or an exciting start for "C route". The cannon fire from town during the first ascent was quite appropriate as we lit the fuse and then fired up Black Powder.
1. Face climb up the wide 4 inch crack. Pull over the small overhang on the right side with ample flat edges above. ** Must see protection comment below ** Move up C ramp for about 25 feet and belay next to the main wall at the start of the thin crack "Black Powder". For the belay anchor there is a short 3 wide crack in the ramp and a little higher and right is a horizontal pocket for a small finger size cam. Also down low to the left of the 3" crack in the bush is another short crack.
2. Finish with "Black Powder" or "C route".
LocationHead up the trail aiming for the "Sign Wall". When you reach the narrow gully that leads to "Hard up Direct" step to the right a few feet to a small flat platform at the out side corner of " ". Do not head up the gully scramble.
ProtectionA Mandatory cam the size of an orange #3 Metolius TCU is needed immediately after pulling over the roof, the TCU placement is excellent however a 4 cam device might not fit. This pocket is the only gear after pulling the roof and may contain or be hidden by some small vegetation.
A tiny double zero and zero TCU was used straight up in the roof crack. A large #4 Camalot is needed near the top of the wide crack. Also a large #5 Camalot works nice near the bottom of the wide crack however smaller gear placements is available. The standard rack will fill in the rest of the needed gear.