Type: Trad, Boulder, 20 ft (6 m)
FA: Justin Edl, Jonny Kearley, and Reid Lawler
Page Views: 1,440 total · 13/month
Shared By: JNE on Jul 1, 2012
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Bad Bolt Submission Form Details

Description

This is one fantastic wide crack! This is a fifty-degree overhanging dihedral that starts out bigger than fist/fist stacks and suddenly pinches down to hand/hand stacks about a third of the way up. At the lip, it suddenly widens back to bigger than double fists. Start sitting on the obvious jug to the left of the crack. This is a high standard wide crack that is tall, committing, and pure. The rock is excellent on this one, the landing is perfectly flat, and the line is aesthetic. This is one of the best and proudest wide crack problems I have done anywhere, and I am extra proud to have onsighted this one.  

It is worth noting that the beta which starts out chicken-winging the first section should be considered a variation as it avoids the proper sit start on the jug.  The same goes for any other starting beta.  Other versions are still worthy and high quality problems, but the line which climbs from lowest holds, and therefore the line which is the greatest challenge, is the sit start on the jug.  It is also worth noting that the jug sit start is the obvious start and therefore it is a little ridiculous this point needs to be clarified at all, especially considering the first section (which is largely/entirely skipped by any other variation besides the sit start on the jug) is obviously one of the hard sections which very much contributes to the grade.

Location

This is the big, obvious line that dominates The Stone Cold Cave.

Protection

A couple of pads and a spotter. The lip is about fifteen feet up, and the crux starts where it pinches down and finishes when you top out.

Photos