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Routes in East Face

All Along the Watchtower T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Clevenger Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ordinary Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
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Type: Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Vern Clevenger, Dennis Hennek, and Galen Rowell 1972
Page Views: 583 total · 7/month
Shared By: Josh Cameron on May 15, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Like with the Ordinary Route, this is adventure climbing. If you want to retain the adventure, then don't keep reading.

Pitch 1 (5.7): The climbing starts out easy enough up a right facing corner. At some points, it is tricky to place pro as the crack flares inward. There were packrats living in this crack when we were there, so handjam with care. The crux is about 3/4 of the way up the initial corner. The corner steepens and you have an intermittent finger crack. The crack looked like it would only take marginal pro from me, but you might be able to get a solid piece here. Above the crux, the route enters a long and fun traverse up and right, again with intermittent pro. Take care with the bushes; some of them have little thorns! Belay either below pitch 2 on a small stance or a bit to the right on a spacious sandy ledge. It's 190 feet to the ledge.

Pitch 2 (rated 5.9, but felt 5.9+): There are two finger cracks, one in the right facing corner and one a little farther right in the middle of the huecoed face. We climbed the one in the middle of the face with good finger jams. The first crux on this pitch is pulling over a bulge with good fingers, but poor feet. After this section, climb up under the roof: what comes next is the business of the entire climb. There are two horizontal hand cracks followed by a vertical flake to help you through; both take solid pro. The feet are poor at best; the rock here is slicker than glacier polished granite! The crux is when you realize you can no longer climb up and now have to traverse to the right out the roof, which is somewhat reminiscent of a bombay chimney. I used some strenuous chimney moves to make it to the rest stance (a thank god knob) on the right of the roof. Climb to the top of the tower and build your belay where you see fit.

Pitch 3: We did not finish with the standard 5.6 finish. Instead we finished with the last pitch of "All Along the Watchtower" (I think), which is described here. Climb up easy face and steep blocks until the blocks begin to trend left. For the standard finish, continue heading left following the blocks. Eventually, you'll want to head up and right on a dike. For "All Along the Watchtower", continue climbing up the face on good patina flakes following the bolts to the top. About 30 feet from the top is the crux: switch your climbing into slab technique (after the second pitch felt like 5.8/5.9).


From the parking area, it is the prominent right facing corner just right of the obvious lone pine.


Finger sized pieces to hand/fist sized. I brought a set of nuts and doubles of cams from .3 BD C4 to #3 C4 and a single #4 C4. I used the #4 once, but a #3 would probably have worked just as well.


I just climbed all three pitches of All Along the Watchtower a few days ago. Well at least I think I did. I know I did the first 2 but the third pitch was nothing like you described, so maybe I was off route. The pitch I did had 1 bolt near the top of the pitch as per Marty's guide but was a bit left of the line on his topo. That being said it was a stellar pitch. Very hard for 10a. The pitch initially protected well along a nice finger crack that turned into runout face at the top. The bolts on the route were questionable and the bolt on the lst pitch was next to a bomber pink tricam so I skipped the 1/4" bolt. I just wished the bolt was 10' lower, then the whole pitch would have had great protection. Aug 26, 2015
Josh Cameron
Josh Cameron   California
Who knows what I did, except it was a fun finish. When I did Clevenger Route, I checked out the first half of the 2nd pitch of All Along the Watchtower and it looked stellar though a bit sketch! Jan 17, 2016
Reno, NV
  5.10- PG13
BruceB   Reno, NV
  5.10- PG13
Climbed all 3 pitches pretty much as described in the 4th edition Mammoth guide book.
P1 is a bit friable and grainy, the pro is marginal in places. The crux felt stiff and not very well protected for 5.7
P2 is awkward and slick. Good pro though. I had to hang a couple of times to figure it out. Very stiff for the grade.
P3 goes up a left leaning blocky dyke, then instead of then going right from the tower (per the guide book) there are now 3 bolts going straight up. About 5.8 passed the bolts.

Certainly adventure climbing! Oct 9, 2017
Deb Castro  
Kevin and I were beginning to think that we started in the wrong place. First pitch felt tough for a 5.7 but certainly had some pleasant moments. Sadly, I could only find good gear placements right over the bush at base of P2 crack. Something seemed terribly wrong here because P2 was a bitch for 5.9! Kevin lead further right until he found good gear; I followed along rib of tiny tower. P3 is a mystery.... 5.6 traverse?! Where? I saw bolts to the right of our anchor on the tower but I thought it was the 10a. Kevin led with very little gear and eventually had to run it out over 40’ to top-out! Definitely not 5.6....felt 5.9 for a few moves. Messy route.... we didn’t enjoy it until we drove away. Oct 31, 2018
Josh Cameron
Josh Cameron   California
Yup. Adventure climbing is not for everyone. But for some, the exhilaration, the route finding, and the sense of accomplishment upon reaching the top (or the base in some cases) is well worth the effort. Climb on! Nov 1, 2018

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