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Routes in Black Lakes Crag

5.10 Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
5.11 Mixed Route T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Another Roadside Attraction S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Catholic Schoolgirls S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Goldmine T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hex Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jackyle & Hyde T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Offwidth Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orange Wall?, The T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pullout Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unnamed 5.8 T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Wave, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
zigzag T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 559 total · 7/month
Shared By: clay meier on Mar 22, 2012 with updates from Alex Weber
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Description

This is the large lightening bolt shaped crack on the climbers left side of the black lakes crag. The climb is to the left of the 5.9 offwidth crack.

Start in an open book and climb past a small tree. Climb through fun climbing to a roof. Climb the roof to a ledge, rest here and move right into the "zig zags" protect these moves with bigger gear (BD #5 works)

Fromt the zags, head back left to a layback to the cruxy top out.

Location

This is one of the farthest left (when looking at the cliff from the base) routes on the wall. Look for the splitter big zigzag crack.

Protection

Standard rack, some stoppers, and a few big pieces are helpful. Many long runners for this wandering roofy route will help with rope drag. Bolted Anchors exist on the top out.

Photos

clay meier
  5.10
clay meier  
  5.10
This route is super fun but could use some cleaning. Wear a helmet and consider breaking it into two pitches to mitigate rope drag. Mar 22, 2012
clay meier
  5.10
clay meier  
  5.10
This climb now has rap bolts at the top (not visable from the base) and I spent a lot of time cleaning it (wear a helmet anyways). You're welcome! Sep 25, 2012
Alex Weber  
 
Just climbed this today. Thank you for the rap bolts! I had rope drag issues, even though I was using two half-ropes :S
I would suggest extending a lot of placements... and extending again.
Great climb though :) Jun 3, 2015

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