Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Early Access
Routes in Three Graces
|
East Face/Three Graces TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X |
|
|
Weenis Route S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
|
Window, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
| Type: | Sport, 40 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 38.87627, -104.88137 |
| FA: | Mark Rolofson and Bob D'Antonio, 1983 |
| Page Views: | 1,248 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Newton on Jan 21, 2012 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2026 Seasonal Closures - these are the same as 2021-5
Details
Seasonal climbing closure as of March 2026:
For current and updated seasonal climbing closures, click here: coloradosprings.gov/cultura….
The seasonal closures will be the same as in 2018-2025.
Previously per B. Tennis: all seasonal rock climbing closures in Garden of the Gods were lifted for the season.
Kindergarten/Gray Rock
North Gateway
Old info:
Previously: per Bret Tennis, as of 10/19/22: The Garden of the Gods has lifted all the seasonal rock climbing closures. Prior in 2020: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Closures as of June 5, 2019:
The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
Description
Follow the line of three pins and then over the small roof/bulge to the top of the west fin of Three Graces. The 5.11a crux can be avoided by lassoing the 2nd pin with a sling and staying to the left (5.10). Tying the pin off short may be a good idea anyway: it sticks out a fair amount from the rock, and the ring is rusted solid at a cross-loaded angle. Pulling the bulge direct felt 5.11a-ish, moving left and mantling into the large hueco is 5.10.
Since this route is rarely climbed, expect dirty and crumbly holds. It is a bold and scary route.
Location
Follow the obvious 3 pins on the west face of Three Graces. There are no anchors at the top of this climb. (Rolofson's guide mentions a large horn that can be used as an anchor, but I couldn't find one. There is a bulge up top that could perhaps be slung with 15-20 feet of webbing, but you'd have to leave it behind to rap down, which is a no-no at GotG.)
Finish on the 5.2 The Window to a 2 bolt/2 pin anchor with chains at the top of the formation and rap down either side (use a 60m rope for the west side). Weenis is very difficult to clean on rappel.
Protection
3 old pins, no anchor. Small cams might offer pro under the small roof, but that would be redundant to the 3rd pin. If you finish on The Window, some small cams and a set of nuts might come in handy if you don't want 60 feet of runout to the top (5.2 X).
1 Comment