Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Jonathan O'Brien, Mike Trono
Page Views: 3,561 total · 40/month
Shared By: Jon O'Brien on Oct 18, 2011
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


Dream girl starts to the right on a nice platform below a mini-right facing corner for a few body lengths. Jam/ lieback up to the roof, traverse left under the roof(crux) and gain the perfect vertical hand crack that continues to the top of the cliff.


Location: Find Motorcycle Mama's gigantic l. facing corner. Dream girl starts to the right on a nice platform below a mini-right facing corner for a few body lengths.

Descent: On top, work your way up and left to a large boulder and tree anchor, pull your partner up and then head skier's right to the healthy pine tree rappel on top of motorcycle mama. One 60 m rope rappel.


single rack to 3''. double .75 - 3'' camalot size. recommend 8-10 two-foot length slings. i did not bring stoppers or hexes, this thing swallows cams the entire way. G rated pro.


William Nelson
Cave Creek, AZ
William Nelson   Cave Creek, AZ
Great super easy beginner route, great pro. Potential for major rope drag, so put long runner at top of crack before traverse under roof. Based on other Red Rocks easy trad, I'd say its easier than Solar Slab Gully. IMO easier than 5.4. Great trad route for first lead. I used Metolius power cam #0, BDC4 1x .5, 2 x #1, 1x #1, Anchor in small horizontal crack BDC4 .3, .4, and Met power cam #1. Approach from wash directly below Dream girl. Needs cairns. Apr 9, 2012
Jon O'Brien
Jon O'Brien   Nevada
Great comments, thanks, I agree that you want to extend your draws down low, I think that a leader that navigates this route with no drag, builds a safe anchor, safely brings up their second, and then negotiates a safe rappel is ready to move on to whatever the next step is in their mind. I learned to climb in the Gunks, a community of climbers like no other that supports beginners learning in a happy, safe way and I have tried to add a few routes to Red Rock for the beginners with that in mind, an attempt to "give back" some of that gunks energy! Check out Adventure Guppies at Coco in Calico for a chance to practice a long pitch followed by bringing up your second and then two rappels, extend a few of those draws as well to avoid drag and I recommend doing this without the 70 meter rope as a training option. A friend of mine is currently installing some 5. easy bolted climbs and we'll be sure to post as soon as they are done. Stay safe out there and have fun!


jon May 21, 2013
Keithb00ne Boone
Las Vegas, NV
Keithb00ne Boone   Las Vegas, NV
The climb is a little farther right of Motorcycle Mama than you might expect. Scramble slightly down and across until you see the rock platform. You won't find a route at this grade level with such enjoyable climbing. Save you mid size cams for the amazing hand crack at the top. Nov 29, 2013
Ben Townsend  
Excellent little climb. In terms of technical difficulty, it's barely fifth class, but pretty much ideal as a training opportunity for a new climber to lead on gear -- clean, featured, lots of protection options.

When approaching the crag, it's worth going a bit further up the road (or the wash) to get a straight-on view. The line of the climb is pretty obvious from that perspective, whereas it's a bit hard to see from the base, or from the left when the crag is first visible. Apr 11, 2014
Tony Whitney
Las Vegas, NV
Tony Whitney   Las Vegas, NV
I agree that this is a very fun route. It was my sport climbing partner's first trad lead, and my first lead in many years. This route protects very well. It would be a fun place to practice looking for nut placements. The only thing that makes it a little difficult for a beginning climber is that the belay at the top is out of sight of most of the climb. This makes communication difficult. Overall, very fun. May 27, 2014
my wife and i climbed this the other day and it was a great route for the grade. I slung a boulder at the top and belayed my wife up. She has one short leg so she had to do the Santa Fe lean through the had crack. We rapped off the sappy pine above motorcycle mamma. only after we had a bowl of chex mix. Nov 1, 2014
SP Boston
Watertown, MA
SP Boston   Watertown, MA
A very nice short 5.3 climb with varied positions and rock. Two comments: a lot of loose (and ready to break off) rock can lead to rock fall near the top, and there is some confusion possible about where to belay and rappel at the top. One can build a gear station at the top on a fairly safe flat spot, or continue up and left to a sandy, dusty, rocky spot next to two sappy pine trees which is what leads to difficult communication with the follower. Also, the rappel is not from these two obvious large pine trees, but requires walking climber's left further about 70 feet to the single screw link webbing set up on the more distant pine tree above Moto Mama. Feb 22, 2017