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Routes in j. The Great Zawn

Man of Science S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Problem, The S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, TR, 30 ft
FA: First lead: Dean Hernandez, 1993
Page Views: 874 total, 12/month
Shared By: Justin Johnsen on Sep 9, 2011
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp

You & This Route


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Description

The right-hand sport line on the Great Zawn.

Protection

4 or 5 bolts.

Tops out to a single extra bolt two feet back from the lip. There are no anchors on this route specifically but there is a nice tree on the ledge that is more than adiquate backup for the single bolt.

Photos

Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
  5.11c/d
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
  5.11c/d
Very fun route, with a pretty cryptic crux down low. With the right beta, I thought the route felt like a solid 11c/d. Dec 28, 2013
EFS
5.12a/b
EFS  
5.12a/b
not a prob........just getting back in to climbing again after a long hiatus......id like to get back on it again sometime.....when im back to pulling hard again, right now im a whimp......i snagged a ride on neanderthal about 5 years ago and flew up it........did it last week and i got spit out....after doing the climb about 50 times over the past 20 years, mostly on lead......i need some practice!!!

if you hit no problem, dont forget to get the second bolt clipped, then back down to the no hands knee jam in the big crack to shake out before going for it....... Jul 26, 2012
Justin Johnsen
Nor Cal
Justin Johnsen   Nor Cal  
EFS, thanks for catching that typo! I must've hit the wrong number when I was copying it from Paul Nick's guide. Another reason I don't publish things I haven't climbed on MP any more.

Thanks for the pic and beta. Jul 25, 2012
EFS
5.12a/b
EFS  
5.12a/b
10a-b????? youre kidding me, right?

i took a year and a half of occasional attempts on weekends to finally get this climb back in like 94. i was just breaking into 12s, and ended up with 6 months off from one of the crimpy side pulls on that razor sharp crap that sliced a few deep lines in my finger pads when i peeled off just above the third bolt.....btw, im not sure f there are new bolts but there were only 4 when i did it, and i replaced the bolt and hanger on the second one back then too. definitely 12......
Jul 25, 2012
damonachey
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11d
damonachey   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11d
This route is 5 bolts and tops out to a single extra bolt two feet back from the lip. There are no anchors on this route specifically but there is a nice tree on the ledge that is more than adiquate backup for the single bolt. May 17, 2012