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Routes in Sundance Pinnacle

North Face T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c C1 PG13
Northeast Arete T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Right Crack T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: ??
Page Views: 1,243 total · 16/month
Shared By: matt j hartman on Sep 6, 2011
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

This route follows the corners on the Klettershoe Chimney for a few pitches then breaks right on splitters before the looming chimney above. Great car to car or short outing.
p-1 climb up ramps and corners one easy ground
p-2 see pitch one and repeat. aim for the huge corner above. did these 2 pitches with a bit of simul climbing. possibly 3 pitches to get to the corner.
p-3 climb the nice corner and move right after about 100' 5.9
p-4 climb the very splitter hand crack to an alcove. excellent 5.9 130'
p-5 move over some small overlaps in the chimney to the looming overhang. exposed, short, well protected crux to the summit. 70'
Look over to the Klettershoe and think 5.9!

Location

before North lake turn left off trail and hike to the base. there is a faint trail right before the Jackass pass trail crosses the creek while you are still in the woods. cache packs above and move toward the Sundance. Really good rock on the last 3 pitches. Worth doing.

Protection

Alpine rack with a 4 camalot, maybe an extra hand size.

Photos

matt j hartman
Leavenworth WA
 
matt j hartman   Leavenworth WA
 
true, it is an easy 10 and mostly 5.9 or less. didn't want to re rate things too much though. far easier than Black Elk, another area 5.10. May 30, 2013
Jikimika Dinglehoffer
Lander, Wy
  5.9
Jikimika Dinglehoffer   Lander, Wy
  5.9
The hand crack on the second to last pitch is great, and mostly goes on #3s. The pitch above features two small roofs with good feet on the face to the left, and both are well protected.

The upper roof looked bad(wide and intimidating) from below but went on deep, secure hand jams and some straight out flake pulls/laybacking above. No harder than 5.9, and MILES easier than the route next door, the northeast arete. Aug 31, 2012