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Routes in Sundance Pinnacle

North Face T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c C1 PG13
Northeast Arete T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Right Crack T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Greg Collins, Mal Miller, Reave Castenholtz 1982
Page Views: 4,194 total, 47/month
Shared By: jyount on Jul 29, 2010
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Description

A proud line to the summit of Sundance Pinnacle. The crux splitter finger crack on the NE face/arete is visible as you begin the climb to north lake.
The base of the route is accessed by 400ft of 4th and easy 5th class scrambling to a right facing 5.8 corner below the giant right corner offwidth. Ascend this corner trending right to a large ledge, 5.8 140ft.
Climb a discontinouse crack system trending right to a nice right facing corner. Fire to the end of the crack and bust the Manley mantle. Clip the old button head bolt (yikes!) and traverse right (crux) to the splitter tips crack. Git your slab game face on and bring the rp's/offsets. Belay at the small ledge, 5.10b/c 180ft.
More tips to a hand traverse right and airy climbing to the summit (f&**ing rad), 5.10- 150ft.

Location

Walkoff to the west and around to the north or south.

Protection

Doubles w/ baby cams and rp's/offsets
Miguel D
SLC
 
Miguel D   SLC
 
Get on it! The upper cracks on the face are awesome.

We started the route by traversing across the approach ledges a little higher than we should've. Did one short "approach" traversepitch where our ledge ended to the huge sloping ledge from which the the dirty corner starts. From there, we were able to reach the summit in two pitches with a 70m rope. Last pitch was about 210 ft or so. Sep 5, 2017
Chris Dickson
Telluride, Colorado
Chris Dickson   Telluride, Colorado
The bolt was still an old button-head as of mid-August, 2016. Luckily, you clip the bolt, downclimb a few moves, and do the traverse right with a mini-TR. If you fell there, it wouldn't put a lot of sudden force on the bolt. Sep 2, 2016
Gee Double  
 
Rest in peace, Mal and Reave. Jun 28, 2016
burado
New Hampshire
burado   New Hampshire
My partner and I did this last week. Great line. The 5.10c pitch has it all and doesn't feel that scary, there is no mention of a bolt or slab traverse in the book, so I was in for quite the surprise.
We also overlapped the Right Crack route for about 40 feet following the description in the guidebook. The first pitch we started up a corner that was thin at the bottom and a little dirty. This led up to a wider (3-4") crack at the top. Felt hard for 5.8, but I think it was the way. I trundled a microwave-sized hollow flake on the first pitch at the top of the corner, now there is a nice crimp where the death block was. After choosing where to start, the route-finding felt very straightforward. Aug 19, 2015
MarkJ Johnston
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10c
MarkJ Johnston   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10c
Great Climb with a little confusion about the 3rd of the upper pitches.

We followed the description provided by the Bechtel guide (Cirque of TheTowers & Deep Lake: A Select Guide to The Wind Rivers' Best Rock Climbs). The verbal description of the 5 main pitches was quite reasonable. However, the photograph in that guide and in the beta photo for Sundance Pinnacle on MP show the Northeast Arete and Right Crack as completely separate routes than never overlap. The way we ended up going using Bechtel for guidance had us overlap with Right Crack for perhaps 40 feet then stepping right and up to the stance below the Northeast Arete crux pitch. If you didn't traverse right we could climbed directly up the Right Crack splitter pitch. Have people climbed this such that they didn't end up briefly overlapping with Right Crack?

By my reckoning the upper pitches went. 5.8, 5.9, 5.9, 5.10c, 5.10-


Aug 27, 2012