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Routes in Planetarium / Gecko Wall

Atomic Gecko S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Biohazard S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bubonic S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Buehler's Day Off S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Chronic S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Copernicus S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Dark Matter S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Galileo S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Galileo Left S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Planet X S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Planet Y S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Planetarium S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spaceballs S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Subatomic S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wind in the Willows S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Brian Ketron, Marty Lewis (1995)
Page Views: 328 total, 4/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Aug 28, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This route is immediately left of the big left-facing corner.

A burly lieback up the edge of the crack/groove leads to a crux move off an undercling. Then some more strenuous climbing along the arching crack. The grade assumes that the wall to the right is off. If you stem, the route is probably somewhere in the 5.11 range.

You can also toprope this route by soloing the easy 5th class chimney in the corner.

Protection

5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap.

Photos

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The climbing is fun enough however the bolting and location make this route suck. You would come very close to hitting the corning of the opposing wall if you fall on lead. As a matter of fact some foreign guy asked me to finish it for them because he fell and hit the corner. Jul 12, 2014
Tim Steele
Bishop, CA.
 
Tim Steele   Bishop, CA.
 
Sustained and bouldery for the grade. Way harder than Atomic Gecko. Jun 17, 2014